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The world’s first motel exists today as a ruin, a memory, and an idea. By now it has as many as 16,000 offspring in the US alone, but the original was the Milestone Mo-Tel in Southern California.
Motor vehicles and hotels existed before this, of course, but a century ago, in 1925, just off Highway 101, the Milestone was the first to coin the portmanteau.
I drive three hours north from Los Angeles to the outskirts of the trendy town of San Luis Obispo to at least have a look at its remnants.
The golden era of motor travel didn’t come to the US until the 1950s, by which point this original had been renamed the Motel Inn, but while San Luis Obispo’s historic centre has been rejuvenated, the first motel closed in 1991 and has been steadily crumbling since.
Still, from this humble starting point, an entire genre of travel was born. In the intervening century, motels became shorthand for affordable travel in the US, and in Australia, too.
Down Under, Lansdowne Bridge Motel in Sydney is often cited as our first, opening in 1949 followed by the Bathurst Motel (1954) and the Belair Motel (1957) in Orange, the latter of which is still operating today as the Midcity Motor Lodge.
Despite being designed in Australia, these motels borrow heavily on the US model, according to Tim Ross, comedian, architecture commentator and motel expert.
“They were all influenced by America,” he says. “The early developers of motels either replicated photos they’d seen in books or magazines or went to America and basically ripped off what they saw.
“Famously Bernie Elsey, the entrepreneur who created the Gold Coast, went to Miami with a little Box Brownie camera, took a photo of a kidney-shaped pool and replicated that when he got home.”
Stateside, the motel even became a Hollywood star (see below). Even when it doesn’t host a hero – on film, it is shorthand for scuzzy accommodation, where bank robbers hide out, removing bullets in squalid sinks, or where villains keep hostages until a police megaphone rings out.
Across California there are several examples of classic motel iterations being protected, or reborn as something more refined.
On what becomes a statewide tour of Californian motels, San Luis Obispo is my first stop. Starting and ending in LA, an enormous loop takes me from the city to the coast, to the forests and wine land of the north, then into the mountains and lakes of the Sierra Nevada.
The last leg is through the Mojave Desert. The scenery changes frequently, but the motels remain a rare constant.
Over the course of a nostalgic 10-day trip this year to mark the 100th anniversary of the motel, I realise that for all the oscillations and strangeness of recent times, the great American road-trip remains iconic.
No matter how long you drive or how late you arrive, a motel, just like the classic examples visited below, is waiting to help you along the way.
The Farmhouse, Paso Robles
Then Originally built in 1947 at the beginning of the golden age of American road trips, the first Farmhouse Motor Hotel was popular with drivers visiting what was then just a village of 4500 people. Today, Paso Robles has 32,000 residents, but the form and function of the Farmhouse are little changed.
Now Paso Robles might not be the most famous wine region in California, but it is beloved by those in the know. These days Farmhouse Motel offers a classy interpretation of a motel, worthy of the increasingly opulent city. The Nomada Hotel group bought and renovated this 78-year-old property in 2022, promising to keep its classic look (and neon sign) while thoroughly updating the looks and amenities inside its 26 rooms.
Tell me more If budget isn’t a concern, and you’re looking to experience a little rural-chic with your motel experience, the Farmhouse is a fine choice. There are several nearby wine bars and vineyard tours, plus the ruins of the world’s first motel are just half an hour south, should you want to make a pilgrimage.
Don’t miss Paso Robles can’t match the Napa Valley in Northern California for its culinary offerings, but in Les Petites Canailles it has a restaurant that would not be out of place in that auspicious region. Owned by the son of a winemaker and the son of a butcher, it boasts quality from top-to-bottom of its seasonal fine dining menu.
Essentials From $220, 425 Spring Street, Paso Robles, CA. See farmhousepaso.com
The Sundown Inn, Morro Bay
Then Built in 1960, the motel was a popular stop for truckers heading north along the state’s iconic Highway One. From here, the famous Big Sur is a couple of hours north when the route is open. For the last 40 years, the same owners have ensured their property still offers personal service and tradition for road trippers.
Now For this mum-and-pop-owned classic, little has changed between now and then. The appeal of this 65-year-old, 17-room motel is how committed it is to preserving the aesthetic of California’s early motels. If you’re looking for a hip interpretation, look elsewhere – this is as old school as they come.
Tell me more William and Kay Lin bought the Sundown in 1982, and while they have made sure their motel has stayed fresh (the bathrooms have been refurbished; the rooms rewired and kept comfortable) they have made sure not to move in the bland direction of so many corporate-owned motels. As the couple approaches retirement age they only take bookings a couple of months at a time – their window into a bygone era of American road travel may soon close.
Don’t miss Some of the Californian coast’s must-visit attractions are easy day trips from here. The haul-out beach for boisterous, belching, northern elephant seals is a short drive up the coast, as is Hearst Castle, the mansion once belonging to real life Citizen Kane figure William Randolph Hearst. In town, it’s hard to ignore the bold and beautiful Morro Rock, a volcanic plug that dominates the skyline.
Essentials From $127, 640 Main Street, Morro Bay, CA. See sundowninn.com
Beck’s Motor Lodge, San Francisco
Then When it opened in 1958, the Beck Family charged just $5 a night to stay at their eponymous “motor lodge”. Back then, Alcatraz was still an active prison and the hippy scene was yet to sweep San Francisco. The politician and gay activist Harvey Milk organised the first Castro Street Fair close to the motel in 1974; the event continues to take place every October.
Now Located in the heart of San Francisco’s Castro District, Beck’s seems almost out of place. A classic two-storey, horseshoe design doesn’t really belong in the heart of one of America’s largest urban centres, and yet that’s where you’ll find it, right next to one of the city’s beloved tramlines.
Tell me more Reports of San Francisco’s recent demise have been exaggerated – this much is clear as soon as you arrive at Beck’s. With its classic sign and proximity to the trams (or cable cars) staying here on a sunny day can feel like the best kind of time travel to an era of prosperity and equality in the Golden City. Though the prices are of course much more than $5 a night these days, it still offers great value and proximity to excellent bars and restaurants. Beck’s also offers the rarest of things in modern California: free onsite parking, right in the middle of the city.
Don’t miss If you’re looking to understand San Francisco of a different era, it’s absolutely worth visiting Alcatraz. The prison island would have been a thriving, miserable place when those on the outside were exploring roads in their new muscle cars. Walk between the cells and wonder how many of the former prisoners would have fantasised about taking their own road trips – or how many were in motels when the G-man came calling.
Essentials From $197, 2222 Market Street, San Francisco, CA. See becksmotorlodge.com
Flamingo Resort, Santa Rosa
Then Another offering originally from the 1950s, the Flamingo was named after the more famous hotel in Las Vegas. Once famous for its celebrity clientele – including Jayne Mansfield – it was popular for its stylish looks, bottomless martinis, and quick access to some of California’s beautiful redwood forests.
Now The spinning neon pink flamingo lets you know you’re in the right place from far and wide. This historical landmark may have changed its title but arrayed around a swimming pool and with hundreds of parking spaces, there’s no doubt that the flamingo remains a stylish motel at heart.
Tell me more With 170 rooms, this is a pretty huge interpretation of a motel. Extensively remodelled in 2021, it’s become a destination property. So many motels are designed to be visited for a single night before moving on elsewhere, but the Flamingo will make you tarry. Its on-site Lazeaway Club restaurant would be worth visiting even if you weren’t staying here. In particular look out for its sprawling brunches. Meanwhile, the on-site sports complex has an elaborate gym, though if you don’t fancy that, you can always just lounge around the 25-metre centrepiece pool.
Don’t miss In the nearby town of Sebastopol, make sure to visit The Barlow. This one-time apple-pressing complex is now home to a network of outstanding bars and restaurants. Food tours are available, taking in everything from cheesemongers to taco trucks to pinball machine bars.
Essentials From $269, 2777 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa, CA. See flamingoresort.com
Crown Motel, Lake Tahoe
Then Opened in 1956 when Lake Tahoe and its sensational surroundings were still an arduous distance from any major city, the Crown arrived early enough to reserve a spectacular location. Back then, the place was serene and jet-ski free. It’s still possible to find peace by the beautiful lake, but it was certainly easier when the Ferrari family opened their first 14 rooms all those years ago.
Now Property prices around Lake Tahoe are extortionate and most of the lakeside is dominated by opulent private residences and stratospherically expensive hotels. The Crown, by contrast, offers few frills, but with its beachfront location, has views to match any of its grander neighbours.
Tell me more Definitely remaining at the no-frills end of the motel scale, what the Crown lacks in grandeur, it makes up for with immediate access to Lake Tahoe, with sweeping views, taking in the lake itself and snow-capped mountains. The surrounding town of Kings Beach is a nice mix of quaint and practical, while drives around the lakeshore, or across the nearby state line into Nevada make for easy day trips.
Don’t miss If you’re approaching from the west, make Nevada City your final stop before arriving at the lake. This Californian gold rush town boomed and busted like so many others in the 1800s, but it has preserved its historic downtown with admirable dedication. The saloons and the wooden facades along Broad Street combine to give a sense of a much wilder west.
Essentials From $180, 8200 North Lake Blvd, Kings Beach, CA. See tahoecrown.com
Dow Villa, Lone Pine
Then In the heyday of the making of wild west movies, Lone Pine – and specifically this classic motel – was the place to be. Movie memorabilia festoons the lobby, a museum to a golden era when guests here included Roy Rogers, Robert Mitchum and, inevitably, John Wayne. To look outside the window is to see the land as they saw it: the dry desert leading to the high, snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Originally built as a hotel in 1923, it was upgraded to a 50-room motel in 1956.
Now As the name suggests, Lone Pine is a long way from quite a lot. This desert town’s lustre may have faded over the decades, but a visit to the Dow Villa offers a window to a grander past.
Tell me more In an era of corporate motel chains, it seems remarkable that the Dow Villa is still family owned and run. This is even truer because since 1956, it has been the same family. Since 1978 sisters Lynne and Jeanne have owned the place and have done an outstanding job of maintaining the traditions of cosy hospitality established by their parents. Fans of classic westerns should make the three-hour drive from LA just to see this place.
Don’t miss There are many good restaurant options in Lone Pine, but a short walk north from Dow Villa, look out for the Los Hermanos food truck. The tacos served out of its little hatch are some of the best in this part of the state, as delicious as they are messy.
Essentials From $128, 310 South Main Street, Lone Pine, CA See dowvillamotel.com
Five iconic motels in pop culture
Bates Motel, Psycho
The most infamous of all Californian motels never actually existed, which, considering the Bates Motel’s murderous reputation, is a mercy. The setting for Psycho (and a later eponymous TV series) could hardly have been a poorer advert for accommodation management.
The motels in No Country for Old Men
There was a comparable amount of blood spilt in motel rooms in the multiple Oscar-winner No Country For Old Men, though at least it wasn’t down to the owners. The real-life Regal Inn in Las Vegas, New Mexico, was the location for that film’s infamous shotgun rampage.
Rosebud Motel in Schitt’s Creek
Though it was included to show how far the Rose family had fallen from grace, the Rosebud Motel at least offers a lighter depiction of motel life on the small screen. The primary setting for all six seasons of the wildly popular Schitt’s Creek, the real motel is in the town of Mono, Canada.
The motel in The Florida Project
On the other side of the country, The Florida Project, was another awards success as it charted the unfortunate lives of people living permanently in a motel opposite Walt Disney World, dreaming of the lives of those just over the security fences.
The Tiki Motel (and others) in The Terminator
Back in California, motels – including the fictional Tiki Motel – pop up frequently in The Terminator. It’s there that Sarah Connor and Kyle Reese have their fateful union. In another, Arnold Schwarzenegger performs some graphic surgery on his machine-body.
Five more great motels around the US
Wigwam Motel, Holbrook, Arizona
Located on the iconic Route 66, these concrete teepees offer a bit of pure Americana along what is perhaps the most famous road in the world. See sleepinawigwam.com
The Dive Motel, Nashville, Tennessee
What’s authentic and what’s not hardly seems to matter in the Dive. The decor demands to be photographed, as do the disco balls in each room. See thedivemotel.com
The Big Texan, Amarillo, Texas
Absurd from top-to-bottom, the Big Texan has ads for itself 100 kilometres away. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the gigantic bull and ads for free steak. See bigtexan.com
The Wagon Wheel, Cuba, Missouri
Continuously open since the 1930s, the Wagon Wheel is one of the oldest functioning motels in America and has been a classic Route 66 stop from the start. See wagonwheel66cuba.com
The Starlite Motel, Kerhonkson, New York State
A couple of hours north from New York City, the Starlite is a precisely preserved 1960s throwback that offers great access to the glorious Catskills mountains. See thestarlitemotel.com
Booked on classics: Tim Ross’ favourite Oz-tels
The Isla, Batemans Bay, NSW
This is the new model of classic motels. You check in with a code and there’s a vending machine with booze and snacks in it. What you miss out on is a cranky guy giving you a key and a jug of milk at two in the morning when you check in late. You gain with having a cold tinnie by the pool. See theisla.com.au
Timothee Resort Busselton, WA
An exceptional 1980s motel that has been tastefully renovated with exceptional gardens and a knock-out Indian restaurant. They still do the breakfast hatches. See www.thetimothee.com.au
Black Dolphin Motel, Merimbula, NSW
Architect Robin Boyd designed this motel in the 1960s as an antidote to the Americana of the new wave of motels. Truly Australian in design, it’s currently being updated and restored. See newsouthwaleshotels.net
Portland Retro Motel, Portland, Vic
Close to local beaches, this motel attracts local wildlife, including koalas and wallabies. See retromotel.com.au
The Sails Brunswick Heads, NSW
A total old-charmer with a subtle recent update, this feels like the beach holidays of my youth including kids playing Marco Polo in the pool. See thesailsmotel.com.au
Riverfront Motel, Hobart, Tas
Just a stone’s throw from Mona, this motel is an authentic retro motel, and has the most extraordinary 1950s house that you can rent. I love it. See riverfrontmotel.com.au
Tim Ross’s exhibition The Australian Dream? Is touring nationally; his book, What a Ripper! 60 everyday objects that shaped Australia is out now; Tim and Kev’s Big Design Adventure is a new podcast from Tim and Kevin McCloud. See modernisterbooks.com
The details
Drive
The US is perhaps the best country in the world for road-trips, with wide open highways, an abundance of petrol stations, and clear signage. Almost all rental cars are automatic, and typically on the larger side. Speed limits are strictly enforced, especially around towns and cities, and parking in city centres – in particular LA and San Francisco – can be notoriously expensive.
Fly
Qantas operates regular direct flights to Los Angeles from Sydney and Melbourne. See qantas.com
Plan
For more information, including suggested road-trip itineraries around California, see visitcalifornia.com
The writer travelled as a guest of Visit California.
