Malin

Entering Malin feels like being let in on a secret. The 1880s terrace is veiled by sheer curtains, with its true entrance tucked off the main street. A petite bar leads to a softly lit dining room where the tables – some marble, some linen-draped – are like intimate bubbles.

French chef Clement Pilatre is a master of saucing, whose dishes are never quite what you expect. He might crown fresh oysters with sabayon and caviar, then slip in a layer of tangy beef tartare. Or fill a hefty dumpling with Moroccan tagine, and plate it like a painter’s palette daubed with vibrant purees.

Even his potato mash is a surprise. Infused with vanilla, coconut and rum, it’s so creamy and sweet that it could be dessert. Co-owner Natasha Sorensen brings warmth and smarts to the service, making you feel part of the club.

Best for: Date nights, and deep and meaningful conversations.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.