Is a Kimberley cruise too wild for a nervous traveller? I found out

I am not a fearless traveller. Cautious to a fault, I worry about potential pitfalls and situational dangers. Relaxed and at home in big cities that some people might find overwhelming, I’m skittish in remote corners of the world where the wild things roam.

So, when Oscar Alvarez, a naturalist and expedition crew member, warns there are crocodile predators everywhere we will cruise in the Kimberley, I briefly consider staying on the ship for the next 10 days.

“If a croc is hunting you, you will not know it,” Alvarez says of the semiaquatic reptile.

“They are the top of the food chain, using stealth and camouflage to patiently wait until you make a mistake.”

We’re on APT’s 10-day Kimberley Coastal Expedition cruise aboard the luxurious Seabourn Pursuit, sailing from Broome to Darwin in near-perfect autumn weather.

This is APT’s first charter of the season on the impressive ship, in what will be a multi-year partnership.

It’s a win for travellers who enjoy the APT style and loyalty benefits of travel, along with Seabourn’s creature comforts such as unlimited caviar, 132 lavish oceanfront suites and exemplary service. Several of my fellow passengers have combined a land-based Kimberley tour with this cruise, a deep-dive immersion in the region.

On this sailing, there’s an APT cruise director, a giant jar of Vegemite on the breakfast buffet, and a more laid-back vibe and casual dress code than one would normally expect on an ultra-luxe cruise.

But back to the crocodiles. As Alvarez rightly warned, they are indeed everywhere in the Kimberley, a vast area of Western Australia’s wilderness that is more than three times the size of England and almost twice that of the state of Victoria.

His advice is simple: Never lean out of the Zodiac boats, don’t dangle your arms and legs in the water, always stay at least five metres from the water’s edge and follow all instructions from the expedition team.

“We bring hundreds of people here every week, and we’ve never had a crocodile incident,” he says.

“It’s always about human behaviour: a backpacker trying to impress the ladies by jumping in a billabong, campers having a romantic night swim. It’s always people going in the water where they shouldn’t.”

We have plenty of time to perfect our Zodiac best-practice form, with daily (mostly twice-daily) excursions.

Safety briefings are thorough and informative, led by unflappable expedition leader Nicki D’Souza and an expert team of geologists, wildlife researchers, birders and marine biologists.

Inflatable life vests are provided and are mandatory on all Zodiac tours. Once suitably suited up, we wait each day for our group to be called and then make our way down to the loading platform. Crew members offer a steadying hand as we climb into the Zodiacs. Even for older and less-mobile guests, the task of getting from ship to Zodiac and back again is doable with this friendly assistance.

Out on the open water, the landscape is far more diverse than I had expected. One day we’re rocking and rolling in the choppy tides of the Horizontal Falls in Talbot Bay, described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”.

In the highly protected marine reserve surrounding Ashmore Reef, there’s a rare, exhilarating opportunity for experienced snorkellers to take a brief dip.

Next, we’re being splashed by the powerful spray from Oomari (King George Falls), the highest twin waterfalls in Western Australia. On the lookout for dolphins, dugong and sharks, I spot nimble rock wallabies darting down the rust-coloured cliffs, majestic turtles gliding beneath the water’s surface and crocodiles sunning themselves on the rocks.

We always keep a safe distance in the Zodiac.

Some excursions require a wet landing in the Zodiac, which means sitting on the edge of the boat, swinging your legs into the shallows and walking a few steps to the shore. Waterproof shoes are a must.

During a surprise beer-and-cocktail party on the beach, we’re assured there are designated croc-spotters keeping a close eye out for any potential unwanted guests.

On shore, guests are invited to participate in a “Welcome to Country” ceremony led by the Arraluli people, the traditional custodians of the land. A guided hike to visit ancient rock art sites is a rare opportunity to have the significance explained and interpreted by local Indigenous experts. An up-close look at the legendary Gwion Gwion rock paintings, created thousands of years ago, is a fascinating cultural experience.

As each day passes, my wildlife fears turn into excitement and wonder. I have complete faith in the skill and sound judgement of the expedition team. It’s not just “safety first” with these responsible men and women: It’s safety first, second and third. So long as I do what they say, it’s all good.

Even for those guests who don’t venture off the ship every day, a magnificent sense of place can be enjoyed simply by gazing out at the scenery we pass by.

Every stateroom on Seabourn Pursuit has a private balcony, and we certainly make use of ours, relaxing at the end of the day with an Aperol spritz and some delicious snacks delivered by the room-service team.

In 10 days we see only one other vessel, a small cruise ship near Ashmore Reef. The unforgettable sight of towering red cliffs, brilliant turquoise water and mesmerising sunsets is enhanced by the echoes of solitude. At times it feels like it’s just us out here watching the wild beauty, and the crocs, always watching us.

Five more things on expedition

What to pack
Pack a sun hat with adjustable chin strap for windy Zodiac rides; reef-safe sunscreen with high SPF; non-slip reef shoes or sneakers/sandals that can get wet; small backpack; and attachable wrist strap for your smartphone if you’ll be using it as a camera.

What to read
For days at sea, bring a good book. 100 Things to See In The Kimberley by Scotty Connell, a local guide, is highly recommended. For a historical female perspective, consider The Great Australian Loneliness by Ernestine Hill, who explored the outback in the 1930s.

What to wear
For evenings, a smart-casual dress code is suggested. Leave the ballgown and tuxedo at home.

Where to look
If you’re more on the ship than off, one of the best places to view wildlife is from the Bow Lounge. Another appealing spot is on Deck 5, by the open-air infinity pool.

When to stop
Visitors will no longer be allowed to boat through the gaps at the Horizontal Falls by 2028, a decision that has been welcomed by traditional owners. APT has already implemented the change, taking guests on thrilling Zodiac rides that showcase the Falls without traversing through them.

The details

Cruise
Experience Australia’s last wild frontier on APT’s 10-day Kimberley Coastal Expedition aboard the ultra-luxury Seabourn Pursuit with all-verandah suites between Broome and Darwin. Priced from $16,895 per person on select 2026 departures (until November 30, 2025, or until sold out, whichever is earlier). Discover ancient rock art, pristine beaches, and natural wonders including King George Falls and Horizontal Falls. See aptouring.com

Stay
Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the best-known resort in Broome and the only one that overlooks Cable Beach. Rooms from $359 a night (summer season). See cablebeachclub.com

Fly
Qantas flies direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Broome and Darwin. See qantas.com

More
westernaustralia.com
northernterritory.com

The writer travelled as a guest of APT.

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