Giant ship’s premium section may have ruined all future cruising for me

The ship: MSC World Europa

• The cruise Seven-day round trip from Barcelona, Spain.
• Launched 2022
• Passengers 6762
• Crew 2138
• Passenger decks 16; 2626 staterooms
• Length 333.3 metres

The ship

There’s no escaping that MSC World Europa is enormous, and among the top 10 largest cruise ships on the seas. Debuted in 2022 for the World Cup in Doha, where it was a floating hotel, it was the first of MSC Cruise’s World-class vessels: a second operates in the Caribbean and more are coming. From December 2026, MSC World Asia will assume Mediterranean duties and Europa will move to the Gulf. Built with energy efficiency and sustainability in mind, Europa is propelled by LNG and is built to minimise marine disruption. For all her size, Europa is fairly easy to navigate. That said, there is a butler as part of MSC’s Yacht Club to escort me around. Yacht Club pioneered the “ship within a ship” concept, as seven foredecks are carved out exclusively for those who have paid a premium. It’s a bit like business class in a plane, except Yacht Club members are free to roam anywhere and enjoy the facilities in the larger area, then escape to the private lounge, restaurant and solarium.

Boarding

MSC owns Barcelona’s terminal H, so it is set up with its ships in mind, and is easy to get to via the cruise bus (€3). Yacht Club passengers get priority boarding, a perk at every port. Here, I am met outside, under an awning, where they take luggage and escort passengers through security to a lounge. Drinks and nibbles are offered during check-in, and butlers help connect to the ship’s Wi-Fi and/or log in to the MSC for Me app. They return with my cruise card and passport before I get to the bottom of a glass of juice, but not before I’m asked to pick out an extra bottle for the minibar (I opt for the red). A short walk towards the pointy end, and a butler escorts us up to deck 19 to introduce us to the concierge area and Top Sail Lounge.

The design

Large as she is, Europa is elegant inside and out. The Y-shaped aft seeks to maximise the number of balcony cabins while also opening up an enticing promenade at the ship’s rear. The decks are named for European cities (I am staying in the lofty heights of Valletta on deck 21) and these are showcased in monochromatic photographs that line the corridors. Yacht Club leans towards navy and greys. Elsewhere, there are bronzes and sepia and the occasional hint at its future Middle Eastern mission without ever being gaudy. The ship is particularly attractive when seen from shore at night.

The spaces

It’s possible to spend days within the Yacht Club, taking in three-course meals at the restaurant on 20, then sauntering up to the private pool area on deck 22, before drifting back down to the Top Sail Lounge on deck 19 for cocktail hour. These are the best places to take in the views when pulling in or out of port. But that would mean missing out on the more family-friendly indoor and outdoor pool expanses on deck 18, the entertainment zones in the bowels of the ship, the gym and spa facilities, and the speciality dining. The MSC fleet’s largest aquatic park graces the rear deck 20, luxury shopping opportunities abound, and there is a coffee shop, tea house and gin joint to complement the bars.

The stateroom

The Yacht Club Deluxe Suite on deck 21 is 25 square metres plus a balcony, making it spacious without being grandiose. The suite can be set up for four: a neighbour had extra bedding for a family. There is a pillow menu for those who like such options, safe and hairdryer are present and correct, and there is plenty of wardrobe space. There is elbow room in the bathroom. A bottle of Fontanafredda Asti and 10 chocolate-covered strawberries greet me on arrival, while the red picked for the minibar turns up later (the first snacks were free, more cost money; drinks were included and topped up daily). In the main part of the ship, the balcony suites are more compact and the bathrooms a bit squishier. Elsewhere in the Yacht Club are larger suites, ranging from duplexes to those with large balconies and whirlpool baths. The grandest is a 104-square-metre Owner’s Suite with a balcony alone that’s more than double the size of my stateroom and views from the bow that must rival those from the Top Sail Lounge, although I never get a glimpse.

The food

If you can’t find anything you like, you’re not trying hard enough. The Yacht Club restaurant is difficult to beat for breakfast, not only for the views but for the smoked salmon, eggs any which way and pancake or waffle options. Those lining up for the buffet towards the rear of the ship are not short of choice, either. The Bar and Grill upstairs has quicker, lighter offerings and is open later for breakfast for those who sleep in. The Yacht Club restaurant boasts three-course lunches and dinners, and there are always-available favourites. It goes the extra mile on gala night and is only a spiral staircase away from the lounge. Better still, however, is La Brasserie by Reservation; a buffet by day is converted into an exclusive dining experience by night. I tag along with a group of seven Canadians and am able to sample widely from the menu; succulent sea bass, sizzling steaks, baked spaghetti and a half-dozen dessert options drifted past. Go in a group at least once. Of the speciality dining, I sample The Butcher’s Cut steakhouse (the bone marrow entree stands out), Greek-inspired seafood joint La Pescaderia (seabream deboned by the table) and the entertaining Kaito Teppanyaki. Desserts in particular are dangerous.

Wellness

A 50-minute Balinese massage is included in my package, and there are daily yoga routines to join, but the real highlight of MSC’s Aurea Spa is the thermal area. The rain curtain over a Mediterranean bath, the crunchy air of the salt cave, the fog of a steam room and the desiccating heat of saunas (with ocean views) are just the start. There is also a snow room (defrosted on the day of my visit, sadly), a Kneipp walk of alternating cold and hot pools to stand in, experience showers, and a Japanese hot stone bed. Yacht Club members get unlimited access, but bookings are essential, and it is best to plan as it gets popular (especially on a sea day). There are other ways to be pampered, either at the salon or barber, and fitness and sport options for those keen to keep their muscles moving.

Entertainment

The 1150-seat World Theatre has three shows a night, ranging from acrobatics and stunts to comedy and Broadway-style revues. The rows reserved for Yacht Club have a good view and are conveniently located. The smaller Panorama Lounge, aft through the casino, is a spot for music and a dance floor, while the Luna Park Arena is a versatile space that is family-friendly fun by day and a place to party at night. In Yacht Club, the Top Sail Lounge generally features a pianist, singer and maybe a guitarist, and musical acts pop up on the World Promenade of an evening. The best show, however, may just be the jazz band at the Speakeasy: an invitation-only area accessed via a secret location.

The crew

Having a butler was a new experience for me, and Tiana was a pleasant, professional presence on hand when needed to recommend shows, sort out spa bookings or swipe the priority access card on the lift to get me to the right restaurant on time. The Yacht Club staff are attuned and helpful, and everyone is courteous and professional. The Yacht Club restaurant waiters seem to be at a heightened level of attentiveness at breakfast. Gratuities are included, and are shared equally among staff, which makes life easier for everyone and no doubt contributes to the overall high standard of service.

The verdict

It’s hard not to think I’ve started cruising at the top and that anything else might be a letdown in comparison, but consider me converted.

The details

The seven-day round trip from Barcelona visits Marseille, France; Genoa, Italy; Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy; Messina, Italy; Valetta, Malta; and a day at sea. Boarding is available at every stop, so there is always a steady influx of new passengers. Fares for a Yacht Club deluxe suite from $3647 a person, including taxes and hotel service charge.

See msccruises.com.au

The rating out of five

★★★★½

Swell

The desserts, especially those with lemon or orange, provide the icing on a luxurious cake.

Not so swell

The spa’s attempts to upsell me on collagen socks and supplements are a bit off-putting, if perfectly polite.

The writer travelled as a guest of MSC Cruises.