Even sceptics of large ships will be impressed by this superbly run giant

The ship:Norwegian Viva

• The cruise Ten-night and eight-day Mediterranean tour from Rome to Lisbon
• Launched 2023
• Staterooms 1586
• Passengers 3099
• Crew 1506
• Decks 20
• Length 294 metres

The second ship in Norwegian Cruise Line’s Prima Class, Norwegian Viva is a large but not overwhelming ship where few details have been spared from bow to stern. (The remaining four Prima Class vessels will be delivered through to 2028). Passengers’ ages range from toddlers to those 80-plus and, given the huge variety of entertainment, shore excursions and on board activities, Viva provides amusements for everybody. The cuisine is noteworthy for its breadth and variety.

Boarding

The cruise begins at Rome’s port city, Civitavecchia, 70 kilometres north-west of Rome. Trains run between Rome Termini and Civitavecchia (one hour); by car from Rome takes slightly longer. On arrival, I expect long lines and frazzled guests, but there are neither of these; we zig-zag our way efficiently around near-clear lines. Our shipboard smart card is supplied promptly, and we head to our stateroom before exploring the ship.

The design

Given its massive size and many dining, lounge and entertainment spaces, the design is striking. The hues throughout the three-levelled atrium and corridors are subtle (pale blue dominates) and there’s a strong focus on lighting, glass and artworks (don’t miss the 16-metre long interactive “butterfly” piece). Then the creative fun begins: each restaurant, bar and entertainment area has a discrete layout and ambience, thanks to a clever blend of materials, artworks, colours and lighting.

The spaces

Where to go? The Viva Raceway, a three-level go cart track that winds around the ship’s funnel? Or the Waterfront that wraps the entire way around deck 8? Or even the three-level Penrose Atrium, the heart of the ship that’s home to Guest Relations? The pool on the main deck is on the small side for a ship this size and regulars report that the pool area gets crowded in warmer weather (it’s cool during my visit) but sunseekers can pay to access the Vibe Beach Club, an adults-only area with loungers and jacuzzis. On deck 16, the fitness centre is a large, airy space with one of the ship’s best vistas.

Elsewhere, on deck 17, the Commodore Club is wonderful for afternoon scones with a view. The Viva Theatre, the hotspot for live performances and game shows, also transforms into a nightclub. Restaurants and bars are spread throughout the ship. Standout features include the arches and ripples at Onda, the Italian restaurant (“onda” means wave in Italian) and the crystal chandeliers of Le Bistro. Note: I don’t visit The Haven – an exclusive “ship within a ship” experience.

The stateroom

Of the multiple cabin combinations, mine is a balcony stateroom. It’s a tranquil place with a neutral palette offset by turquoise cushions and a feature wall. There’s decent storage and room for a two-seat sofa and a narrow dressing-table-cum-desk. The mattress is thick and firm for those with back issues, yet soft enough to absorb any rough crossings. Electrical outlets are North American and European, but there are handy USB and USB-C options. The shower is powerful, the water hot. Minor gripes? The lack of a bed valance lowers the standards of otherwise elevated furnishings (you can see your luggage) and there are no slippers, robes or shampoo.

The food

Where to eat the next meal is the biggest decision of this cruise experience. With 16 dining options the choice is ridiculously good. Quality can vary, but mostly it is very good. And if you can’t find something to your liking, your tastebuds aren’t functioning. We enjoy our meals at Palomar (Mediterranean), Onda by Scarpetta (Italian), and Hasuki, the entertaining – if loud – teppanyaki experience.

Highlights are Nama’s sublime sashimi and for quality meat cuts, Cagney’s steakhouse. The 11 stations at Indulge Food Hall serve global cuisine in (welcomed) modest portions. The “complimentary” dining options, The Commodore Room and Hudson’s, have similar menus though the latter wins hands down for the elegant, open-plan space that’s crowned by golden leaf-shaped lights and has a 270-degree view. At all venues, staff are patient and committed to nailing orders; given the different nationalities and preferences, this is impressive.

Wellness

With all my offshore excursions and activities, I don’t have time to indulge at the Mandara Spa, the go-to spot for beauty treatments and cosmetic procedures. Instead, I’m given a tour of the venue. The space is quiet, meditative and soothing with a tempting hydrotherapy pool and sauna, steam room and a salt chamber among other experiences.

Entertainment

Viva takes entertainment to Broadway and theme-park heights. On board activities – “fab abs” classes to arts and crafts sessions, trivia to karaoke – run all day. Few teenagers are on board; I’m told when they are, the hi-tech Galaxy Pavilion, a virtual reality games arcade, is packed. There are water slides, kids’ clubs and deck games. But the most novel thrill is the Viva Speedway, a three-level go cart racetrack on top of the ship. I don a helmet (the real deal) and whizz around the circuit in a beginners’ time slot. It’s as much fun as … well, a racetrack on top of a ship. Evenings bring fabulous live performances including the band in Syd Norman’s Pour House. Its renditions from Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours has the crowd in raptures. Viva’s drawcard “cruisicals” feature Icons, a fun tribute to famous pop singers, and Beetlejuice. Night owls appear at the nightclub and casino.

The crew

The hardworking, vivacious well-versed crew, drawn mainly from South America, Africa, South and South-East Asia, are delightful and service-oriented. Given the sheer volume of passengers they must deal with and the systems they follow, mealtime service can seem overly efficient at times. But when it really counts, individuals pull out all stops, showing extreme grace and kindness to elderly passengers and those who require extra attention.

The verdict

For such a large ship this runs superbly well and offers something for everyone. Its main strength is how it makes travel inclusive for all; it caters effectively to those of all ages and stages, including the elderly and those with special needs. Paying constantly for services can take the shine off the experience so consider the pre-paid packages.

The details

A nine-day Cruise to Greek Isles: Santorini, Athens & Mykonos sails from Istanbul, Turkey on Norwegian Viva on September 7-16, 2026. From $4335 a person; Free at Sea (includes beverages, Wi-Fi and shore excursion credits) from $4865. Phone 1300 255 200. See ncl.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★

Swell

Even large cruise ship cynics (my travelling companion) soon realise what a slick operation this is. It caters to a wide spectrum of people, including solo travellers, and provides an excellent opportunity for those who might not otherwise be able to, or want, to travel independently.

Not so swell

Water filters are not located around the ship. To fill your drink bottle, you have to go to Deck 8’s Indulge Food Hall or the buffet. If you’re not doing a shore excursion, more often than not you must pay for shuttles to access port towns at US$20 (about $28.50) return.

The writer travelled as a guest of Norwegian Cruise Line.