Cruise line’s new ship is a leap forward in luxury

The ship: Rotterdam

• The cruise Norwegian Fjords & Shetland, seven days
• Commissioned 2021
• Passengers 2668
• Crew 1048
• Passenger decks 13 above sea level; 1340 staterooms
• Length 297 metres

Holland America’s newest ship in its 11-strong mid-size fleet achieves the remarkable feat of never feeling too big and rarely too small. With six restaurants, two cafes and six bars, queuing for anything is unusual – except for the Grand Dutch Cafe, which has a dedicated following of guests from the Netherlands who line up for the apple and bacon pancakes (weird) and stroopwafels (fabulous). And while the ship doesn’t have rollercoasters or ultra-indulgent attractions, its style places it firmly in the premium category. The proof is that 50 to 60 per cent of its guests are repeat “mariners”.

Boarding

We’re given staggered times to arrive at the dedicated Holland America cruise terminal in Rotterdam, where our bags are whisked away, we’re photographed and given our passes. Considering the numbers, the check-in process is fast and efficient. We’re steered into the main buffet dining room for lunch and shortly afterwards we find our rooms, with the luggage arriving five minutes later. Disembarking and reboarding at the ports of call is fast – thanks to facial recognition technology – even in the Shetlands where post-Brexit customs officers board.

The design

Built in 2021 in Venice, hence with an abundance of Murano glass, this Rotterdam is the seventh ship with the name and by far the most luxurious. The company has come a long way since its first steamship in 1872, built to take Dutch migrants to a new life in America. During World War II, the company’s ships carried 8000 troops instead of the usual 200 passengers, outpacing German U-boats. This latest ship is ultra-modern, with Wi-Fi throughout and the latest gym equipment, but it is also elegant, with more than 2640 pieces of art on board worth an estimated $US4.1 million. The statement piece is a spectacular $US620,000 7.5-tonne twisting steel sculpture, three decks tall in the atrium, called Harps, which glows with ever-varying coloured lighting.

The spaces

The Lido is the hub of the ship, with both indoor and outdoor sections and a retractable glass roof to make it usable whatever the weather. There’s casual dining and events around the pool and sundecks, as well as a massive movie screen, and music. A central area is dedicated to live music performances, with Billboard Onboard having duelling pianos and singalong music favourites. But the joy of this ship is that there are also plenty of smaller, more private spaces for people to retreat to.

The stateroom

My Vista suite is half the size of my hotel room in Rotterdam, but three times more comfortable and convenient. It’s fabulously designed with a sofa, table and desk, and full-length glass doors out to the verandah with its own chairs and tables. The queen size bed is comfortable, our giant suitcases fit neatly underneath, and we can’t come close to filling up all the wardrobe space. The bathroom is small but perfectly formed, with great water pressure in the shower. There’s plenty of room for my travelling partner and I to both work, too, while Ricardo, our butler, appears and disappears like a ninja, leaving only order and calm in his wake.

The food

Meals, and the food selection, in the main dining room and the more informal buffet-style Lido Market are excellent, with a choice of all the world cuisines and a huge choice of desserts. There are also four specialty restaurants: Tamarind with Pan-Asian dishes; Rudi’s Sel de Mer with seafood; the Pinnacle Grill; and the Italian diner Canaletto. My only complaint would be that the servings are too big. There are also the casual eateries, including the Dive-In mid-ship, with burgers and hot dogs, the New York Pizza and Deli for bagels and pizza, and the sushi bar Morimoto by Sea. With an ice-cream bar too, and a cake afternoon as well as a cupcake afternoon tea, no one could ever go hungry.

Wellness

The spa and salon offer a huge menu of treatments and services and while predictably expensive, it is a beautiful space. Staff seem well-trained and personable, and facilities include a hydrotherapy pool, as well as lots of cosy private treatment rooms. But you have to book early to be sure to get the treatments you want at the time you want them, especially during days at sea. The gym is probably the best I’ve seen on a cruise ship and offers fitness classes like yoga, Pilates, tai chi and cardio training. Even better, there’s a pickleball court.

Entertainment

There’s something on every minute of every day. Crafts, quizzes, talks, game shows, an art auction, bingo, wine-tasting … the list never ends. The movies by the pool are a selection of the big hits, the casino is a fair size but rarely looks busy, the rock band at Rolling Stone is an excellent outfit, BB King’s is good fun, and you have to arrive early at Billboard for a seat listening to – and singing along with – the piano players. The shows on the World Stage are slick and professional. My favourite shows were two presentations by the ship’s crew, which pack out the World Stage, and are also screened in lounges. Holland America: Origin Story details the history of the cruise line, with fascinating titbits about famous guests including Katherine Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin and Louis Armstrong; while the other show, City at Sea, is about the ship’s workings, ending with the entire crew parading past.

The crew

The crew insist they’re one big, happy family, and they exude genuine bonhomie. Many of the repeat passengers know crew members by name. Money alone can’t buy that amount of goodwill.

The verdict

It’s a well-sized ship, with a huge amount of entertainment but the kind of service that makes you feel it’s personal too with enough small spaces to get away from it all.

The details

Holland America’s seven-day Norwegian Fjords and Shetland cruise is from $2929 a person twin-share, flights not included, or from $3594 a person which includes speciality dining, shore excursion credit, beverage package and Wi-Fi. See hollandamerica.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★

SWELL
The crew are great, and I loved learning all about what goes into making a cruise ship function.

NOT SO SWELL
After an excellent relaxing hot stones massage, the relentless upselling at the spa is teeth-grindingly awful.

The writer was a guest of Holland America.