3 weeks ago
14
Adrian Bridge
September 16, 2025 — 5:00am
Let’s start with the positives. The Observation Car on board Britain’s newest luxury train is a thing of considerable beauty.
I am sitting (comfortably) towards the rear of the compartment admiring the warm textures and fabrics of the seats and banquettes that, as the day progresses, will be the setting for countless cups of tea and cocktails, lively conversation and the joy of new – and old – acquaintances.
I am also enjoying observing the passing scenery – in this case the hills rising above the deeply atmospheric Welsh town of Barmouth and the lapping waves as we head north along the coast.
The 7am “Meditation in Motion” session is about to begin and I am feeling pretty Zen.
Welcome to the Britannic Explorer, the latest addition to the stable of luxury trains bearing the name Belmond, the company behind the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE), and a genuinely new departure both in terms of both destination and style.
The launch of the new train has been keenly anticipated, particularly following the cancellation on technical grounds, not once, but twice, of what was meant to be its inaugural run in July.
The train finally got underway late last week, with a jaunt to the Cornish Riviera. I am on its second outing: a three-day journey to Wales via the quintessentially English charms of the Cotswolds, which set off from London Victoria late in the afternoon on Monday.
I have already had the pleasure of meeting many of my fellow guests, including two groups of friends that have travelled from America. I have even found myself joining in with one of the American groups – originally of Indian heritage – in late-night high jinks and dancing to the sounds of rapper Panjabi MC.
With a starting price of £11,000 ($22,400) for a cabin for two, journeys on the Britannic Explorer do not come cheap – and with what can only be described as a chequered start, would it live up to the price tag?
From the outside, there is no doubt that this is a magnificent creation, a vision of light blue brilliance stylishly embossed with the words “Britannic Explorer”. With a soothing palette of colours inspired by the natural world, heritage motifs and playful touches, the interiors exude class.
So I was surprised when, as I was first exploring my plush-looking twin-bedded cabin, I opened the wardrobe doors to reveal someone else’s worn clothes and pyjamas.
An embarrassing moment, but I was willing to dismiss it as an unfortunate oversight. Soon after, however, I discovered cupboard doors that were tricky to open; a safe that was not functional; plus a heated towel rail in the beautifully appointed ensuite bathroom that was, at times, too hot to handle. Had these things not been tested?
I joined the convivial gathering in the Observation Car where windows are wide and pre-dinner cocktails bearing monikers such as Pembrokeshire Tide (English vermouth) and Penzance Pearl (Cornish gin) soothed spirits and set tongues wagging.
Much of the talk revolved around the outings of the day. On this trip there was a bracing walk in the Welsh hills (yes, it rained), and a delightful visit to a lavender farm with a wild swimming pond. On another day there was a visit to the Museum of Modern Art in Machynlleth (not quite on the level of the one in New York, but a very pleasant interlude) and a clay pigeon-shooting experience (surprise, surprise, most of the men went for this one). In Barmouth, there was a meditative campfire ritual on the beach.
Inevitably, some of the talk turned to the train itself and whether it lived up to expectation. Those who had never been on a luxury train journey before were genuinely impressed – they did not have a comparison; those who had were more critical.
One pair felt the cabins with double beds were a little cramped; another that the two dining cars, an eye-pleasing ensemble embracing woven rattan panels, mirrored ceilings and striking floral lights were “not very fancy”.
There was widespread disappointment that the train’s spa carriage was not yet ready for service (though there was a wellness specialist on board offering massages) and consternation that the water supply to cabins – mine included – ran dry on occasion. On a train costing this much?
Veterans of VSOE journeys regretted the fact that although there had been indications there would be at least one formal black tie-style dining occasion, there turned out to be almost no dress code requirement (though truth be told, that suited some).
But it was in the culinary department that more serious objections were raised. Belmond had made a great deal of the fact that the menus had been curated by Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan and would be drawing heavily on his farm-to-fork ethos.
One guest complained of portions being “miniscule” and frequently “lukewarm” and expressed disbelief when told the kitchen would be unable to provide poached eggs at breakfast.
I am not a massive foodie, but I have experienced the exquisite meals that are served on the VSOE and these came nowhere near it.
Food aside, the service – while charming and solicitous – was consistently slow and lacked the effortless professionalism and suave sophistication of Belmond’s longer-established rail operations.
“Are we guinea pigs here?” I heard frequently, as it became clear that too many things were not going to plan – or that the plans were still being formulated. It transpired that two key members of the catering team had been unable to make the trip.
A hugely apologetic Rogan admitted that the quality of what was served was unacceptable and that he personally was going to ensure a dramatic improvement for journeys to come.
“We were not fully ready; the menus were not feasible for the facilities on a train and the kitchen was not properly working. But we are going to turn this around,” he promised.
Perhaps fittingly the last meal we had on the journey was in The Fox, a quaint Cotswolds pub dating back to the 19th century where pale ales, Japanese whiskies and English classics such as fish and chips with mushy peas were consumed with gusto, and spirits were raised.
Of course there had been lots of positives: the evening at The Fox being one of them. There had been genuine pleasure in making new connections and sharing a range of experiences, too – good and bad.
I am a huge fan of Belmond and its trains. But I am sorry to report that the Britannic Explorer fell well short of the very high standards that are justifiably associated with the brand.
The writer travelled as a guest of Belmond. Rates for the Britannic Explorer, A Belmond Train start from £11,000 (based on a double cabin) and £28,000 for a Grand Suite, including a three-night itinerary, excursions, meals, wine and alcoholic beverages on board. See belmond.com
The Telegraph, London
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