Adam Liaw’s golden rules for making a showstopping (and sog-free) spanakopita

2 hours ago 3

Ingredients

  • 1kg English spinach, washed (see note)

  • 1 bunch spring onions, finely sliced

  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed

  • ¾ cup finely shredded flat-leaf parsley

  • ½ cup finely shredded dill

  • 400g feta, crumbled

  • 2 tbsp cous cous (optional, see note)

  • 4 eggs, lightly whisked

  • salt and freshly ground pepper

  • 375g frozen filo pastry, thawed

  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil

  • lemon wedges, to serve

Method

  1. Step 1

    Bring a large pot of water to a simmer and blanch the spinach for just 20-30 seconds. Dip the root ends in first, then submerge the stems, and finally push the leaves under. Once wilted, quickly transfer the spinach to an ice bath using tongs to shock it and stop the cooking process immediately.

  2. Step 2

    Trim and discard the roots and chop the remaining spinach. I like to include the stems, but chop them finely so they are not too fibrous. Place the chopped spinach into a colander lined with muslin or a kitchen towel, then squeeze firmly to remove any moisture, then transfer to a mixing bowl.

  3. Step 3

    Combine the spinach with the spring onions, garlic, parsley, dill and feta. Taste the filling and adjust the seasoning with salt. It should taste slightly oversalty, as the seasoning will be diluted once the eggs and pastry are added. If you’re using cous cous to help absorb moisture (see notes), fold it in now before mixing through the eggs to bind everything together.

  4. Step 4

    Preheat the oven to 180C fan-forced (200C conventional) and brush a 20cm x 30cm baking dish with olive oil.

  5. Step 5

    Unroll the filo pastry and place it between two damp tea towels to keep it from drying out and cracking. Count your sheets, then layer half of them into the dish one by one, brushing liberally with oil between each layer. Rotate the orientation of each sheet as you go to ensure the base and sides are fully covered with a bit of overhang. I like to add a light pinch of salt every second or third sheet.

  6. Step 6

    Spread the filling evenly over the pastry and smooth the top. Layer the remaining sheets over the filling, continuing to brush each with olive oil (and a light seasoning of salt). Roll any overhang inwards to create a neat, rustic border. Finally, use a sharp knife to score the top layers into large rectangular portions; this ensures a clean, crisp crunch when serving.

  7. Step 7

    Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the top of the spanakopita is deeply golden and crisp. Allow the pie to stand for 15 minutes to set before serving with lemon wedges.

Masterclass

Grit-free greens

I always prepare leafy greens, regardless of the variety, by soaking them in a large basin of cold water – either a kitchen sink or a deep bowl. This cold plunge does double duty: it hydrates the greens and separates the leaves, allowing the water to dissolve any grit or dirt trapped between the layers.

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Give the leaves an initial rinse, then submerge them in the basin. Agitate them gently with your hands and let them soak for a few minutes. When you lift the leaves out, you’re likely to see the silt collected at the bottom of the bowl. Always lift the greens out of the water rather than tipping the water out over the greens, as the latter just re-deposits the dirt. Repeat the process until the water runs clear.

Tuscan kale adds heft to a spanakopita filling.iStock

Ditch the baby spinach

While baby spinach is Australia’s most popular green – accounting for half of all sales due to its affordability and versatility – it is actually the one leaf I wouldn’t recommend for spanakopita. As a tender green, it can be used for breakfast, lunch or dinner, which makes it an excellent high-volume commercial crop. But once cooked, it lacks the structural integrity and “bite” that a great pie requires.

Instead, choose greens with more character. Stemmed “English” spinach is an excellent choice, but you can also use silverbeet, chard or kale. If you’re feeling adventurous, try peppery rocket, watercress, nettles or even native warrigal greens. Even sturdier lettuces or sorrel can be mixed in. The goal is a filling with texture, and that comes from the thicker, heartier stems that baby spinach hasn’t had the time to grow.

Dinner head start

Blanched spinach is a staple in my fridge. I prefer to blanch it with the roots still attached – it makes the bunch easier to handle and extends its shelf life.

To prepare it, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Submerge the roots and stems first for about 10 seconds, then push the leaves under. As soon as they wilt, lift the spinach out and plunge it into a bowl of iced water to cool. Correctly blanched, spinach should be tender while retaining some texture; overcook it, and you’re left with something floppy and slimy.

I store the blanched bunches submerged in a bowl of fresh water in the fridge, where they stay vibrant for up to a week. Beyond spanakopita, it makes an excellent head-start ingredient:

  • Japanese: Toss with soy sauce and bonito flakes or a creamy sesame dressing.
  • Korean: Dress with soy sauce and toasted sesame oil.
  • Everyday: Roughly chop and fold into pastas, soup or frittata.

The cous cous safety net

It’s a culinary meme for a reason: a mountain of fresh spinach wilts down to almost nothing the moment it hits the heat, shedding an extraordinary amount of liquid in the process. While blanching and squeezing remove most of this moisture, more will inevitably escape during cooking.

In Greece, some cooks use trahanas (a mixture of cracked wheat and fermented milk) to soak up these juices. However, many Greek families swear by a more accessible safety net: a sprinkle of cous cous.

I add just 2 tablespoons of dry cous cous to the filling. It’s enough to mop up most of the spinach juice, ensuring your pastry base stays crisp, without leaving a grainy texture in the finished dish.

A little cous cous in the filling helps mop up the spinach juices during cooking.Getty Images/iStockphoto

The seasoning secret

If your spanakopita consistently tastes a little bland, the culprit is usually a simple lack of seasoning. It’s like missing a putt on the low side of the hole – cooks often “miss” because they aren’t forceful enough with the salt.

Your filling should taste slightly saltier than you’d prefer when you first mix it. Remember that once you add the eggs and cous cous, that seasoning has a lot of heavy lifting to do; it has to flavour not only the greens but also the neutral pastry and the oil. To ensure every bite is balanced, I also recommend a light sprinkle of salt between every second or third layer of filo.

Main character energy

While spanakopita is a classic accompaniment to a larger Greek feast of roast lamb or lemon-oregano chicken, I prefer to let it take centre stage. It is substantial enough to be the main character, provided you give it the right support cast.

For a light, effortless meal, a generous wedge of lemon is all you need; the acidity cuts through the rich pastry and salty feta perfectly. If you want to round out the plate, a simple green salad or a few slices of raw tomato (or slow-roasted tomatoes in the cooler months) add a refreshing contrast. For something more indulgent, a dollop of cool, garlicky tzatziki is the ultimate partner to the warm, flaky pie.

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