A beauty ingredient once derived from sharks is this year’s retinol

2 weeks ago 2

Every so often an ingredient captures the beauty industry and seems to become inescapable. We saw it with hyaluronic acid and retinol, which have become skincare staples. Now squalene and squalane are enjoying their moment in the sun.

Squalene occurs naturally in the body and is found in skin sebum. It has antioxidant and emollient properties that work to keep skin hydrated. Sadly, as we age, our body’s squalene production slows.

Squalene has antioxidant and emollient properties that work to keep skin hydrated.

Squalane is a refined, more stable version, derived through hydrogenating squalene, and is used in skincare products to boost moisture, improve elasticity and offer antioxidant protection. It’s also great for barrier protection and retaining moisture without clogging pores.

One thing worth noting: in the past, squalane was derived many from the livers of deep-sea sharks, but these days it is more commonly derived from plant-based sources such as olives, rice bran and sugarcane. Here are some of our favourite squalane products.

Youth to the People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask ($32) is great for a moisture hit as it also contains hyaluronic acid, glycerin, vitamin C, moringa oil and prickly pear extract to plump and hydrate skin. It’s especially good for dry skin.

Squalane is also great at soothing skin stressed by cosmetic procedures. SkinCeuticals Hydra Balm ($65) contains squalane, aloe vera and bisabolol, which form a protective barrier while its thick formula locks in moisture to help skin heal. It’s also fragrance-free.

Then I Met You Birch Milk Refining Toner ($68) has a gentle concentration of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and a blend of glycolic, lactic and polyhydroxy acids, along with birch juice and squalane, designed to calm skin as the acids exfoliate. This is a great product for skin radiance.

For dark spots, Caudalie Vinoperfect Brightening Dark Spot Serum ($121) contains vine sap and olive-derived squalane. Model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, who has worked with Caudalie, is a fan.

For a nighttime treat, keep Laneige Water Sleeping Mask ($48) on your bedside table. This cooling gel adds moisture and seals it in with a blend of squalane, niacinamide and microbiome-friendly bacteria derived from green tea.

For eyes, target fine lines and dark circles with Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream ($103), which colour-corrects the delicate under-eye area and is intensely hydrating. Other ingredients include paracress extract, astaxanthin and hyaluronic acid.

Squalane is now creeping into make-up and one of our favourites is BareMinerals Complexion Rescue Skin Perfecting Tint ($64), a tinted SPF with squalane and hyaluronic acid that comes in 20 shades.

ASK STEPH

Where should I apply luminiser?
For a cream product, use your fingers to blend it into the top of your cheeks and over the centre of your lips; try Iconic London Illuminator Liquid Highlighter ($60). For powder, use a brush to apply it to your cupid’s bow and over your collarbone; try Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Glow Glide Face Architect Highlighter ($76).

Send questions via Instagram, @mrssdarling.

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